Monday 23 August 2010

From a wooden compost bin to an aerobin; composting is the new black

A proper compost bin is the hub of every healthy and thriving garden and fortunately garden composting is gaining interest. Nearly everybody nowadays recognizes the importance of recycling. We simply can't carry on filling up rubbish tips,otherwise very soon we will be living upon nothing but garbage. In earnest though landfill waste is responsible for not inconsiderable emissions of methane, this green house gas is significantly more detrimental than co2. The most satisfying form of recycling is of course composting kitchen and garden waste. Filling up a compost bin delivers its very own particular pleasure. Converting leftovers from your kitchen and recycling newspaper and cardboard into fine, delicious compost is a awesome type of alchemy. The compost we make works extremely well to enhance the garden soil, which can restock your kitchen with garden harvests. How amazing to be encouraging the miraculous cycle of decay and renewal. You will not even have to leave the house (not bad for cutting down carbon footprints!) and on top of that you get fantastic compost for your garden absolutely free.



Soils, particularly those soils predominantly cultivated for producing veggies where we count upon good performance from plants, will need the incorporation of compost for 2 functions: Number one to boost the structure of the garden soil and the second is to add important nutrients to the top soil. If your soil is too heavy, made up of larger particles, and subject to water-logging, this soil is often labelled as clay soil. Roots find it hard to get nutrients and may rot completely in chilly, wet winter months. Whenever soil is light and free draining, for example sandy soils, valuable nutrients and minerals are washed away swiftly and vegetables aren't able to extract water and goodness from your soil. Digging in matter that's hummus rich, including garden compost not only restores nutrients to worn-out top soil but contributes structure. This helps to make sandy soil more moisture and nutrient retentive, and breaks up clay soils to make sure they are a lot more free draining helping plant's roots to make full use of the goodness encased in the soil. A generous mulch of garden compost during fallow periods should also guard bare soil from erosion and suppress weeds.



If a gardener did nothing more than dispose of all your garden waste materials in a unobtrusive spot of the garden it would most likely rot down to compost in the long run, however for speedier results getting some sort of compost bin is required. You can't go wrong with a classic wooden compost bin, and they are generally the most attractive looking.  They often can be purchased along with add on modules. The good thing about this approach is that the gardener can start off one module, turn it over in to the next, to help provide useful mixing and aeration, then leave it to decompose whilst starting to fill the emptied compost bin with new waste. A lot of experienced grow-your-owners like to do their composting using a 3-bin set-up and this enables them to generate compost when they require it, in harmony with the seasons. Compost tumblers, that rotate and aerate compost without the gardener having to fork over the contents, or the most up-to-date innovative Aerobin garden composter with its core aerating ‘lung’, can make compost within a few weeks once filled. These bins are fully enclosed, with extra insulation to create high temperatures whatever the time of year, and have the advantage of being rodent proof.



Whatever kind of compost bin you go for the principles on which waste materials to add are mainly identical, you have to achieve a balance of ‘brown’ and ‘green’ waste materials. Green waste is nitrogen rich and is essential to start the process of decomposition. Green materials are in general an excellent source of nutrients in the compost. Brown waste is carbon dense and supplies bulk and texture. Generally speaking when starting out try to get an equal blend, adding green and brown material in thin layers. You may decide that you need to add more brown waste in the event the compost looks damp and slimy, quite a few gardeners might argue that the balance should tip towards brown waste . If the contents of your bin are too dry however, decomposition will stop and in this case you should water the heap. (Better yet find the nerve to ask a gentleman to pee over it !)

Green waste includes: fruit and veg peelings, grass cuttings, green leafy waste, annual weeds, nettles, comfrey leaves. The final two being very good compost bin accelerators, but remember nothing but leaves please, no seed heads or root or your garden will be crowded with undesirable weeds.

Brown waste includes: autumn leaves, mature woody prunings, cardboard and paper, sawdust and the contents of your vacuum cleaner.

If you’ve chosen a traditional wooden compost bin situate it on open soil so helpful micro-organisms can gain access to the pile, and remember to turn and aerate your compost every so often.  It is best to site all bins in an area of the garden that is neither too sunny or too shady as either excessive heat, or excessive cold can halt the composting process.

See also:

 powell bunk beds for sale
steripen
Sewing Tables



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